MG Hyakushiki Complete

Since part one and part two already discuss from box art to the detail and articulation of this kit, maybe i should wrap up the modification description here. From the first photo, it doesn't show much different on the modified but may be the second photo will. The painting process for this time was quite easy but it still require two painting session for me to complete the entire painting process due to the heat from the compressor. Here is the paint list used on this kit:

-Mr.Surfacer 1000 as the base

-Dark blue (combination of Mr.Color Character blue, Mr.Color Metallic Blue and Mr.Color Metallic Black)

-Blood red (Mr.Color Metallic red)

-Silver (Mr.Metal Silver Chrome)

-Black (Mr.Color Metallic Black)

-Panel line on the pipe ( Tamiya Enamel Dark Blue)

These are the paint i need to complete this project, quite simple isn't it. The color scheme that i used was almost same from the manual. The only part i changed was the hydraulic pipe in the legs which i painted with red and silver and the thrusters on the back pack with silver. I'm using Tamiya enamel dark blue this time as for panel in those red color pipe. For me, it was a new method since i use airbrush spray directly to those pipe and use wash method to achieve the result show in the picture (number 8 from top). I learn this method from Youtube which show modelers from Japan which their work also features in Dengeki Magazine and Hobby Magazine (there are lot of techniques that i finally have the tools to learn and practice about it). I will try to show as much video as i can into here later.

I do mentioned that this kit is hard to pose or create dynamic shots for photos and yes it is (for me). The solution i have by not putting on heavy modification to make this model kit look dynamic in the photo is by using a wide-angle with close distance focus lens but not only that, the waist joint plays important role to make it look the action look more dynamic. Wide angle with close distance focus lens can stretch the object in the photo look longer if you have camera with wide-angle lens and the effect will be more stronger with wider angle lens. It also will help for making the object posing in the photos look more dynamic. Too bad i only have the  18-55mm wide angle lens which have the film format equivalent to 28mm focal length and the closest range for the lens to focus is about 25cm away. My only solution (other than changing the lens) is to crop the photos.  

Alright, enough for the words and let pictures tell the rest:

MG Hyakushiki Modification part 1

It's been a while that we didn't post anything related to gunpla building or modification process but don't worry, we're back. This time is about some simple modification on MG Hyakushiki. We have found some of the great tutorial video on how to build gunpla like what we saw in magazines and we will share it out here soon. Before that, you can check out this modification

So, this is the modification part I'm talking about in the previous post. I never thought of using this way to modify the abdomen part until i check because i'm lazy to check the WIP post in different forum, I will only check the end result normally but patience is a must for studying gunpla modification tutorial. As for this modification, I learn it from the modeler-g website. The author of the kit did this modification using a HGUC 1/144 Hyakushiki and he posted few WIP photos in that post which provide sufficient information for me to get what i want but i still can't get it to the perfect measurement i want at the end. What i'm not satisfy with the end result is the shape of the pla-plate was not perfect enough for me and the end result can be better if i add another 1 or 2mm of pla-plate into it. Nothing i can change since i have paint everything now. So, have a look on the this WIP process and i'm really hope you guys can give some comments for me to improve my future modification.

 This is what it looks like before the modification begin.