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Dec 20, 2011

Top 10 Selling in Nov. 2011



Here shows the top 10 selling in GKgundamkit in Nov, 2011. Will you want one of it?

Dec 15, 2011

GK Blogger Contest (RESULTS!!!)


Alright guys, for those who participated, i know you can't wait for the result and here we are after the long wait. Before i announce the result, i have to say thanks again for all participants and those who support the contest even though they couldn't enter the contest due to some reasons. The contest was held around November, the duration for the contest was a bit short and not expose enough to all other bloggers and that's why the response was quite low but we still appreciate those who participated and interested to the contest. AND HERE IS THE RESULT for the selected winners:

- Nazree Anuar    from http://bd77.wordpress.com/
Russell Hutchison      from http://tembergundam.blogspot.com/ 
Gundam Meisters      from http://gundameisters.blogspot.com/
- Goh Chee Yong        from http://k3v1nh0bby.blogspot.com/

So, congratulations guys. Further instruction will be given before January (not much but just some basic information for the selected winners)
I will conclude this contest year 2011 here. 

For any other inquiries or questions, you may drop a mail to the following email address in the following link:

Gk Contest plus Promotion for Bloggers




Dec 9, 2011

GK Christmas promotion items list

Since Christmas is coming, Gk has come out with its own promotion items for this celebration. So, check it out if you plan to get some gundam as gift.


 Gk promotion items for Christmas:

 -1/100 00 Raiser with Seven Sword
 -1/144 KZ-000 Quin Mantha Full Kit
 -RX-78 GP-04 Gerbera
 -1/60 ZGMF-X20A Strike Freedom Gundam
 -1/100 NZ666 Kshatriya Full Kit
 -1/100 Gundam Astray Blue Frame 2nd Revise
 -1/100 Shin Musha Gundam "`Sengoku no Jin`"
 -1/100 Shin Musha Gundam
 -1/100 RX-78-4 Gundam

So, Don't miss it!!!


Dec 7, 2011

GK Contest (updates) and Completed FAZZ video

Alright guys, for those who participate and ask about this contest, I want to say thanks to you all. Although there are not much participants in this contest due various reason but we really appreciate for those who like our facebook fanpage and share this contest out (although you can't participate).

Although the contest was suppose to end on 30th November 2011 but due to we have only 4 selected bloggers, we decided to extend the due date until 13th December 2011 which is two days before the selected bloggers list announce. As for the last slot, the rules will change a bit. Whoever get the slot first, the slot will be yours base on only one rule which is your blog must be gunpla related. so, don't miss it!!!

More information about GK contest here:

Gk Contest plus Promotion for Bloggers

and before i end this post, take a look on my latest video of my completed FAZZ


(the video was record using car show video concept) enjoy..

and remember to check out the PG Strike Freedom 40% discount here!!!

Nov 30, 2011

RG Aile Strike review

My turn. I notice that quite a lot of people starting to work or review this kit recently. I'm not sure is it coincident or its the trend, i pick this to review because I think this is something lighter for me to review during my exam month but I think i underestimate the awesomeness of this kit. I've been reading some of the review about this kit (oops, haven't read Dalong's version but i read his RG RX-78 and i think it should be similar) and the actual touch on this kit compare to reading the review from other source is completely different thing. I was very exciting when i saw the announcement of this kit come in RG but i was quite disappointed when i look at the actual product (I'm not sure why, maybe i prefer 1/100 scale model more than 1/144 scale) and that's why i hold my decision of getting this after it release ( that is also the time i found it sell only RM 83 in The Mines event).  Well, some of the intro about this kit must be made. (this is my official review, hehe). Lets see what i think on my first Real Grade.

The MS itself is come from the Gundam Seed series which released on 2003 and pilot by the main character Kira Yamato which later pass it to Mwu La Flaga after some serious damage with the Aegis gundam and acquire Freedom gundam after the battle. Since it is a main character's MS, the full potential of this kit was show with all its optional pack which are the Aile Striker (in this kit), Launch Striker pack and also Sword Striker pack (hope these will release in RG too). 2x Vulcan on head, Beam rifle, Shield, Armor Schneider (knife), beam saber and also Bazooka (only appear a while in the anime) are the optional hand carry weapon. Striker pack can be mounted on Skygrasper as support unit in the battle which allow Strike to change it striker pack for different weapon and also the battery of the MS. Lots of variation made from it from Seed to Seed Destiny, Stargazer, Astray series and other Astray series.
Lets talk about the model kit itself, it come in 1/144 scale in Real Grade (1/144 scale model with extremely well articulated inner frame). 

(articulation/posability, proportion, inner frame and armor detail, potential customization and other will come in part 2 of the review)

Nov 28, 2011

Gk Contest plus Promotion for Bloggers!!! (2 MORE DAYS LEFT)


Hey guys!!! There are still 2 more days before the contest over. Chances left for you to choose the gunpla of your choice without paying anything. On top of that, you may also enjoy discount for any item in GK in certain period. What are you waiting for?

CHECK OUT THE LINK FOR MORE INFORMATION 

Gk Contest plus Promotion for Bloggers

Nov 21, 2011

GBWC Malaysia 2011 Full coverage


Alright, here we have the full coverage of GBWC 2011 Malaysia on start on 18th November 2011 to 22nd November 2011. Well, as what I heard from the organizer said there were about 80 participants joining in. Although it seems not everyone coming in but there are lot of awesome artwork coming from the participants. As this is a GBWC competition, we can see the competition was quite fierce as lot of the "monsters" (as what we seen from the ZD's champion list) are coming with their masterpiece. You can check on the list from ZD about the selected winners. 

And as usual, sales for gunpla here was quite crazy with RM 83 for RG Aile Strike and a lot of more. If you looking for fair price in Malaysia, you may now try Litt Tak shop in Sungei Wang or you don't miss any event from them. Lets check out the pictures.:



Nov 18, 2011

MG FAZZ Ver.Seven6398 (Sponsored by GK)


This is type of the simple modification to your kit with custom color scheme that will expressed the kit in other way. You can check out the materials, colors and modding style from this kit.

It took me almost three months to complete it. It was another huge project for me since this is a huge kit with lots of part. Luckily I complete an ZZ gundam before and i can complete the ZZ unit in this kit without armor faster than i thought. The armor piece is not hard for painting process too. Detail of the painting process comes later. First, lets check out the paint and customize area.

Nov 11, 2011

GK Contest plus Promotion for Bloggers!!!


GKGundamkit promotion is back again!!! This time we are targeting participants who have blog and also Facebook profile. You can win gundam kit and at the same time, you also get a banner advertisement contract with us which allow you to have greater discount while purchasing gundam kit in GKgundamkit.com. There will be 5 bloggers selected to win the prizes. If you are bloggers with Blogspot, Wordpress and other blog platform, feel free to join this contest.

Prizes for the selected 5 winners:
1 x MG Gundam kit of your choice (from GKgundamkit.com website with available stock)
One year contract for getting 30% discount of any item purchase GKgundamkit.com website with available stock (start after February 2012). The discount stated in the site will no longer applicable.

Prizes for all participants:
For those who joined but not selected can also enjoy one time 10% discount off from GK after discounted price in one bill for any items (start after February 2012).


All you need to do for this contest is simple; follow the requirements and the steps:
Requirement:
- Participants must have their own Blog and Facebook profile that related to gundam
- Provide an email which is also the user identity of your blog.
- Must know how to use HTML code (it should be part of the function from your blog’s dashboard)

Steps:
1.      Copy and paste the HTML code provided below as the banner advertisement and put into your blog (name the section as “Gundam Shop”) . You should put that at the upper part of your blog which will show whenever we check your blog without scrolling down.
a.       For Blogspot
<a href="http://www.gkgundamkit.com/index__en.html ">
<img src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-tORJHFRwGBc/TreCpwxxu0I/AAAAAAAALFo/5kjTj_hT-NA/s1600/Promotional+banners+2.jpg " /></a>

<a href="http://seven6398.blogspot.com/">
<img src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-MbMLlQYGwc4/TreCqAmveQI/AAAAAAAALFs/SWLP7CbdW-w/s1600/Promotional+banners+3.jpg " /></a>
b.      Other platform
Use back the HTML above if your platform using the similar code. If not, then you have to build your own code with the banner and link.


http://seven6398.blogspot.com/
2.      Email us at contest@mggundamkit.com that you have posted the HTML code we provided (banner advertisement) and the email address must be same as your blog’s user identity.
3.      “Share” and “Like” this contest from the provided link in your Facebook profile and email us the link to your Facebook profile (so we can check whether you have share the link)
The result will be announced on mid of December 2011. We will post the item chosen from the selected participants at the end of February 2012. So, what are you waiting for? Follow the steps and prepare to enjoy more discounts from GKgundamkit.com.

Terms and Conditions
We will select 5 winners according to the following criteria:
1.      Post Frequency
2.      Number of friends
3.      Appropriateness of the content
The submission should not later than -  30/11/2011 11P.M (GMT +8)
1.      A list of the first 5 participants or bloggers will be released in our Facebook fanpage and blogs     10/12/2011.
                        i.              GKgundamkit.blogspot.com
                      ii.              Seven6398.blgospot.com
                    iii.              GKgundamkit Facebook fanpage

2.      We have the rights to decide for disqualifying those who cant meet the requirement from the process. (which means even though you’re the selected 5 participants, you still can be disqualify if you didn’t meet any requirement stated here or we found out that you break some of the rules)
3.      If participants doing any changes or renovating their blog which might remove the banner ads temporary, participants have to notify us before they remove the banner ads temporary.
4.      If we notice that the participants had removed the banner advertisement without any reasons and notifications, we will disqualify them.
5.      If the participants stop posting anything in their blog more than 3 months, we will disqualify them.
6.      We need to build a profile of all participants which include their information:
                        i.              Name
                      ii.              Email address
                    iii.              Mailing address
                    iv.              Blog or website
7.      The shipment of the giveaway will commence at the end of February. (There would be a tracking number for them to check against the shipping status)
8.      Selected participants can enjoy 30% discount for all kinds of gundam kit in GK but they only need to make a written and photo reviews on every kit purchased from us. One gundam kit with one written and photo review and post into their bloggers with “Sponsored by GKgundamkit” mentioned. These are what need to do to allow 30% off for all item from GKgundamkit continue after purchase. Further details on this will send to the selected participants.

This offer would continue until our banner advertisement contract is over. This contract would last for 1 year’s time. After then, we would review in the upcoming year contract.

We would have a Q&A emails for all enquiries concerning the contest, you can email to contest@mggundamkit.com. Our event handler would answer you within 24 hours time.

Apr 8, 2011

Chapter 5 - Line Engraving

What tools should we use for engraving lines? How to do it? Where we need to be careful in/cautious about?

As far as I know, the most basic method required for linE engraving is merely one utility knife. Although it would create embossments along the edge (See Figure 1), but they can be removed later using the knife. As shown in Figure 2 is the line engraved by the author with a utility knife; and Figure 3 shows the result after removing above mentioned raised edge. In Figure 4 you can see the effect of Gundam Marker quick lining and polished with 1000# silicon carbide paper; now you know what it should look like after the process of line engraving.

Yet there is still one downside with this method: The line engraved can be too shallow that it can be flattened after painting (Especially by hand brush). To prevent that from happening, usually I would deepen the line with utility knife or P-shaped engraver (See Figure 5). And Figure 6 is how it looks after painting by Mr. Surfacer 1000 (So it is convenient for checking and observing). As you can tell, even with thick base painting applied the engraved line is still quite clear.

Frankly the method I have just introduced is one of many ways to engrave line, in the real modeling cases, (See next figure) various methods and scribing tools should be used for different surface situations (e.g. flat surface, convex surface, and concave surface). From left to right: p-shaped engraver, utility knife, awl, v-head scriber (From Hasegawa Tritool), saw scriber (From Hasegawa Tritool) and Screwdriver (See below).
One problem of line engraving is that you can still make mistakes with the best method and finest tools, (Figure 8 shows a wrong scribing situation after polishing and painting) so it is necessary to master the repair technique. Here are five helpful steps to share with you learned to my own experience. (collectedly smiling):
Apply Tamiya Putty to concave surface of the wrong scribing. (See Figure 9, used Tamiya Poly Putty because could not find any Tamiya Putty); wait until the putty is completely dry out and done shrinking;
Use fine silicon carbide paper polish the putty-applied area (Figure 10); then redo the scribing (Figure 11 is the painted result after redo). Because dried putty is more crispy in nature compared with regular plastic, thus be careful not to press too hard when scribing or you might scoop up small pieces of it.

Before we go to more details of ling engraving, we need to clear out the reasons of why we need to engrave lines on model especially robot, usually there are two:
The lines came with model need to be deepened (e.g., some lines scribed by the manufacturer are too shallow for perfect display), so we have to do it again; or there is no line at all, and we want to add lines for more details on the surface for aesthetic purpose. Either one, in my opinion, requires straight and clean lines if we are to make them ourselves.

To keep the surface clean, I would always make tiny dots marking the distance from the line to the side measured by metal ruler (Figure 12), repeat this several times every certain distance, for example you can make one every 10 cm, then connect them into line, now use metal ruler or DYMO tape(Figure 13) to guide while I scribe with special screwdriver (Figure 14). The advantage of this technique is: Measured distance is precise and convenient to connect, so you would have straight and clean line; metal ruler is tough and unlike those plastic ones might have damaged edge; DYMO tape can be pressed firmly to the model surface without scratching it; the special screwdrivers I use are all minus screwdrivers made in Taiwan, which come in a pack. I made them quite sharp by grinding, that turned them into handy scribing tools, the sweet thing about them is the different sizes are available for various surfaces compared with awl and utility knife both have only one size.

Other situations include line engraving on convex or concave surface (e.g., the waist armor of Zeong), or line with complex shape (e.g., trapezium), so how it is done? In that case I recommend use thin (Like 0.5 mm) transparent plastic plank, cut it into the desired curved shape (Figure 15), and stick it to the corresponding surface by double sided tape and start engraving. You can turn one complex shape scribing into an easy task. Of course, with the help of ruler and more plastic planks, you can have more complex designs become possible; which take practice to make proficient. Because the plastic plank can be cut into almost any shape you want, plus it is transparent, so this is extremely customizable method and very easy to navigate your scribing tool during engraving.

Mar 9, 2011

Chapter 3 - Light Shadow Effect

When finish painting a model, if you want to add more realistic feeling, then special effects are must-have, for instance, adding shadow…

Calculation of Light Source Direction
Before you proceed, you need to measure the facing direction and pose of the model. Giving a simple example, a cube, as showed on the left, if the light source is at the direct front, the surface 1 should be the brightest, and surface 2 receives less light so it’s a bit darker. Next picture illustrates a little more complex case of a shoulder piece, the gray area indicates shadowed area.


You may want to ask: There are natural shadows at those dark areas, so why it’s necessary to create artificial shadows there? The answer lays on the scale of the model, because model is a miniature version of supposedly much bigger figure, hence its shadow which produced by natural light would look quite fake, and so the whole model looks unrealistic like a cheap toy. One solution is to increase the brightness of the light, preferably spot light, to increase the difference between bright and dark surface. However this method is not an easy job, plus the extended period of time intense lighting can cause discoloration of the model painting. Another solution is to make artificial shadow to enhance the bright-and-dark contrast. Insightful readers might have figured it out already: The size plays a vital role here, the smaller the model the darker its shadow making must be.

To find the perfect extent of darkness for a model, obviously you can calculate it out with some rocket science physics equations (Lol~), or more practically, just learn by trying.

Selecting Color
After picking which surfaces needed shadow making, you can move to selecting color. Personally, I often use the base color with a tiny amount of black color paint. Please pay attention not add too much black color, in most cases one or two droplets will do trick, as exceeded amount would lead to great contrast between the shadow and base color, and color saturation (The intensity of specific hue) is also reduced dramatically to the point not appealing to the eyes. If the base color is snow white, you can directly look for [Smoke Gray] to be the shadow color. Because Smoke Gray is a semi-transparent color, by spraying it on the surface, you get yourself a nice shadow effect while preserving the base color. The density of paint should be the same to the most regular cases, please go to Beginner section for more details.

Airbrush Setting
Because shadow creating are mostly on small narrow surface, so adjust paint volume to low and choose small airbrush for better and easier control.

Painting
Some would work on the finished model directly to make shadows, others would disassemble those parts first and just paint on each one of them. Whichever approach you prefer, they both work great and better than the other one in some cases. Normally, if the shadow making is done directly on the entire model, the transition of color would look more natural; yet some parts with area that will be blocked after assembled should be painted individually. So you need to plan carefully before you proceed to painting.
Final tip, there should be no clear cut edge of any shadow, so maintain a minimum distance between the surface and your airbrush’s tip (I’d recommend 15 cm at least), and don’t move too slow, otherwise you will leave a apparent trail of shadow boundary.

Chapter 2 - The use of masking fluid

Normally masking fluid is applied to conceal the unpainted model surface. Yet this time I will show its usage in the situation of joining and painting.

First of all, the masking fluid can be used as putty: Since it’s hard to polish any soft plastic surface, both gates and parting lines on this kind of surface can be easily concealed by masking fluid. The joint shield in the first picture looks like covered by a piece of cloth, which is actually done by multiple-layer masking fluid, and the result looks pretty smooth and clean. The other two look like works of a rusty hand, because they were finished as rush jobs by me for showing in this article.


The mixture of Mr. Hobby masking fluid and oil-based paint, it can be used as super dense model paint. This “Special Paint” can easily be mixed to achieve my desired colors, with high stickiness and quite good elasticity, it’s an applicable paint to soft plastic surface. The bottom two pictures illustrates applying the super dense paint onto the protective layer on the griffon’s waist, notice it’s very resilient and doesn’t crack when bent. That’s more than enough for display purpose models. Personally I believe the mixture ratio between masking fluid and model paint can affect the degree of stickiness and softness (The ratio used for illustration was approximately 1:1). And diluted by rubbing alcohol or solvent can change the result as well (As my personal preference, rubbing alcohol is a better option to dilute masking fluid and water-based paint, because masking fluid comes with gloss look, and rubbing alcohol can change the mixture to a dull look, whereas diluted by solvent produces more glossy result).

People asked me about the rub resistance of masking fluid, which I’m still have no solid answer for. It’s because most models I built are for display purpose only, therefore they seldom get changed poses or moved at all, and there is no telling if they are good against rub and scratch.
But I think the mixture of masking fluid and paint (Ratio 1:1) is about equal to regular masking fluid in most quality aspects. Meanwhile thanks to the great density of the compound, applying it normally generates very stick layer, so logically I reckon it should be excellent to be protective against damage. But on the other hand, regular model paint layer can wear off as time goes, or tiny pieces of the layer might fall apart by minor collision. In the case of masking fluid, once tear out a corner, instead of one piece the entire layer will be ripped off.

The griffon model showed in those pictures, the blue paint layer on its waist has been ripped off by my entirely couple of days ago, so it’s back to its original surface again. Just I stated, I started by ripping a small corner, then the whole thing followed, the entire process took no more than 3 seconds. So if you accidentally grind on masking fluid, the grinded area will not become thinner but produce a bubble, and it will spread later. As for scratch, because paint is blended with masking fluid, so it should be good against scratch. Everyone is welcomed to give it a try to see how resistant the layer can be, and the worst case scenario can happen is ripping off the whole layer!



P.S. Special thanks to Jackson for coming up with creative way to use masking fluid. Because this method is still experimental, Jackson admits there is room for improvements, but also it provides an option for model fans to deal with soft plastic surface painting. I recommend everybody to try this, and feel free to let us know if you have better ideas and suggestions!

Chapter 4 - How to use Poly Putty

Poly Putty is a filler frequently used in model building, which mainly serves purpose of filling and pose making.

There are times we try to achieve a certain pose or appearance of a model, that we intentionally change the shape or model parts to make it happen. And that’s why we need poly putty, because its quality exceeds many model putties (For instance Tamiya Basic Gray Putty), in the ay it can be easily shaped and dries very quick. But not without its shortcoming of loosened joining with model parts and also potentially easy to crack.

How to Use:
Before you use the Poly Putty, it needs to be mixed with catalyst. Get Poly Putty (Brown color) out, then add a small amount of catalyst (Red color),
to blend them together, use a toothpick or swab to fully mix them together, after thorough blend it’s ready to be used for adding; Directly apply the Poly Putty onto the designated surface, because it hardens really fast, so don’t have to pause long before start drafting cuts, we use pencil to draw lines to plan the sculpting, wait for roughly 5 minutes then begin cutting, the process is considerable easy because Poly Putty is not fully hardened so it’s still soft,


take advantage of this status to remove all unwanted putty chunks. Another 10 minutes would make it completely dried, it’s the time for polishing, the technique is nothing different from regular polishing for model craft, after this step we can still easily add more texture details on it, tools like etching needle are suitable for this process. And we can recreate all details if we want to change the shape and pose.

Safety Reminder:
Please keep sufficient air ventilation and be careful with fire, because Poly Putty is a slightly volatile substance, and inhale it constantly would be the same as oil solvent, which is potentially dangerous to health. And this putty is also quite inflammable, so keep in mind to stay away from fire for your own safety.

Poly Putty vs. Other Fillers:


Compare with regular putty, Poly Putty hardens much faster and it doesn’t shrink after dried; Compare to Epoxy Putty(Mixed putty), Epoxy Putty is hard to polish on after dried because the hardness, but Poly Putty is easy to polish. As for Polyester Putty & Moli Moli, all three are quite similar in quality and how to use,


the only major difference is that those two are branded specifically for model building, so they are substantially cost more than Poly Putty.
But taking both the price and quality into account, Poly Putty is a pretty good balanced choice of putty.

Jan 12, 2011

Chapter 1 - Model Painting Techniques Guide


This time we will talk about how to manually apply paint to models with brush. Behind going into the actual painting, we need to familiarize ourselves with the tools and basic knowledge we will be using. Types of Model Paint There are four different types of model color paint. We will go over each of them in the following.

TAMIYA COLORS


Tamiya Enamel Paint


Tamiya Acrylic Paint


Tamiya Thinner X-20A

Tamiya (Generally known as the double star) color water-soluble acrylic paint and Tamiya oil-based polycarbonate enamel paint. The traits of these two are described as, water-soluble paint is rather easy to use; and it all agrees with the Tamiya TS color paint chart, therefore also easy to match. As for oil-based enamel paint, it produces fine grain and form an adhesive tight coat with the painting surface; besides that, it is not soluble or mixes with any other model paint, which makes it an ideal choice for the final process.

Gunze Sangyo Hobby Color

Aqueous Hobby Color water-soluble acrylic safe paint and MR COLOR oil-based hobby paint. The features of these are: the water-soluble acrylic paint is a bit difficult to apply, but after dilution can be used as water color. And it offers a wide range of selection, over 300 colors. The oil-based paint is cheap base color paint.

Gunze Oil Based Paint


Gunze water-soluble Paint


Gunze Thinner


Gunze Retarder Mild

Generally speaking, water-soluble paints are safe nontoxic products. But for the matter of quality, Gunze's oil-based paints are highly recommended for base color painting. Other brands of paint can be found in the market, such as Modeller and so on. Yet we will primarily focus on the abovementioned four.   Tamiya water-soluble paint, please apply the X-20A thinner to dilute; Gunze water-soluble paint may use the same thinner; although water is one of the options either, but it would make the paint harder to dry and small-bubbled. Another alternative is medical grade alcohol. For Tamiya enamel paint, it uses X-20, and Gunze oil-based paint uses Mr. Thinner. Incorrect application ends up the whole bottle paint goes to waste. (Have you ever seen model paint becomes bubble gum?) Thus we must give our full attention to the dilution step, especially Tamiya X-20A and X-20, their model numbers and bottles look a lot like each other.

Brushes

Paint Brush

You need to use the specialized model paint brushes. Because the regular writing brushes or other paintbrushes, the hairs would drop off when using on solvent chemicals since those brushes are designed to resist the strong adhesiveness of model paint. Please wash and clean thoroughly after each use. To paint fine lines, Tamiya has a "High Finish Pointed Brush", which comes with ultra fine point; skilled painter can produce complicated detailed effects like the military camouflage color.

Other Accessories

Paint Tray

Paint tray. It is must-have for holding the working paints, mixing colors. You can purchase dozen of it with couple dollars. Or you can just use paper cups if you want.

Painting over the top of different types of paints

Basic chart:
Base Coat: / Over Coat Tamiya WaterTamiya OilGunze Water Gunze Oil
Tamiya Water--OXO
Tamiya OilX--XO
Gunze Water XO--O
Gunze OilXOX--
This chart indicates when using a specific paint as the base coat, whether painting over it with other paints would dissolve the base coat or not. According to the chart, one of proper approaches is to use Gunze oil paint as the base coat, then use Tamiya water paint to paint over it for additional effects, for instance panel lines, washing and weathering.

Painting Guide

First, predefine the paint order of colors. It should always start with light and gradually to dark color. When painting, keep the motion direction of strokes identical, to prevent making uneven texture. Pay attention to the paint concentration all the time based on your own control preference. Oil-based paint with high concentration causes the fast dry, and leaves visible stroke marks, in this case apply slow dry agents can help eliminate these marks, but the downside is it makes the work hard to dry.
One known shortcoming of manual paint is the thick paint. So please try to divide one painting to many small works, even first time attempt doesn't give satisfying result, don't try to repaint before previous paint is completely dry. Sometimes it's better to undo everything with paint solvent than to create mess by painting over and over again. So in the occasion of painting a large flat surface, the flat brush will come in handy; and for modifying or coloring delicate details, the fine pointed brush is to be used. Here is a tip for painting technique: cross painting, first sweep from one direction and wait for it's almost dry, and then paint over that coat from a slightly changed direction. Do this again for the second coat and then a couple more times. Then you will have a considerably even surface.   To learn how to paint a model appropriately is not easy, there are some who can gorgeously paint everything with a single brush while others try everything but still no acceptable results.    You will find lot skills and techniques to master to be a great painter, but remember only practice makes perfect. See you guys next time!